LIST OF GEAR LINKS Multicam soft shell (the one I use) https://www.amazon.com/TRU-SPEC-Tactical-Softshell-Jacket-Multicam/dp/B009LQ19UO/ref=as_sl_pc_qf_sp_asin_til?tag=blacscousurv-20&linkCode=w00…
March 3, 2018 at 1:18 pm
I love wool too
We don't get a lot of really prolonged cold weather here in the low country of SC. We do get our far share of rain though. Would you still recommend wool for a climate like ours ?
I like gore tex
Great advice for anyone not allergic to wool
Illinois Outdoors & Prepping Reviews
I agree that it is a good idea to keep down jackets away from campfires.
Shape of Fire
Strange title. Everyone has talked about clothing a zillion times.
$50 for top, $50 for bottoms. I guess if you got the money.😊
Wool under leather over with mink oil. Need some boots having soles that won't crack in the cold. Tough and repairable, if a bit heavy.
Everything you say makes sense.One layer system you miss, probably because its considered old fashioned, is the Fibre Pile/Pertex as done by Buffalo Systems. It was the first softshell, though that term has now been highjacked. Synthetic, hard wearing, true pile, it works both next to the skin and as a mid layer. One of the few pieces of clothing that can be worked from soaked to dry; as it works thermally even when wet; just wring it out and keep going. For my sins I'm a smoker and when working always run hot; read sweat like a pig. Fibre pile works even when steaming. I've often binned my sweaty wet through undershirt and put the pile next to the skin to warm up. Sure there are sexier new stuff on the block, but this old system still works better than most things out there IMHO.
I like a full zip on mid layers as opening up and giving a full vent shake out can rid a whole of lot of moisture build up in one go. Better than leaving it in there. Just like changing that wet shirt to dry once stopped.
Its all moisture management. Get that wet off your back once you have stopped working. The wet back you get from carrying a bergen. The big mistake is to think you can get away from changing to dry; always best done before the shivers start. Once the shivers set in thats too late.
Anyhow, enjoys your vids, keep them coming.ATB
when I used to snowboard I would wear a underarmor polyester skin tight shirt above that a tee shirt a fleece and a snow board jacket that it a thick windbreaker type coat with warming factor and in a bad blizzard I was fine for 12 hours that I was outthere
A lot of talk about wool here, which I personally prefer in most cold-weather situations compared to most other fabrics..I'd like to pass on an FYI:If you've ever accidentally shrunk a wool sweater or other hand-washable wool garment by machine washing/drying, etc you CAN restore it to it's original size and shape. -Wet it thoroughly with cold water-Place on a clean flat surface-Then, saturate the entire garment with hair conditioner..use a lot-After 10/15 minutes, gently stretch/pull the garment back into shape -Gently and thoroughly rinse out the conditioner, without wringing the garment-Reblock (reshape) as needed after rinsing and dry it flat (don't hang wool garments to dry)That's it! An old neighbor woman showed me this when I was in high school after I "ruined" a school sweater I had just bought and I never forgot it! The cost of a (cheap) bottle of conditioner has saved many of my sweaters over the years and saved me a lot of $ as well.
this dude is a white guy
Wear layers and DON'T sweat. No matter how much you want to…DON'T do it!.
Thanks for taking the time to share this information.
I grew-up living in a desert environment. While this served me well during my ATD Training in the Corps.?I had ZERO clue about living in humid, or extremely COLD environments. 'Layering' is critical. Type of clothing even more.
Never appreciated that, until I had to live in a truly cold area. Sweat, or get wet (crossing streams/rivers/rain/etc.), wool will continue to trap your warmth. Life-saving.
how about ewcs military gortex tops and bottoms.
if you get wet and are out in a cold wind, 3 MINUTES, maybe a lot less, can render you unable to help yourself, shivering so badly that you can't work a zipper to get into your sleeping bag or pack, can't start a fire, even with a lighter.. You might lay there for another hour, before your heart stops beating, but you were killed in those few minutes.
I thought this was going be about eating the fat and slow people first. So boring
Thanks for your service, Brother. Semper Fi.
I hunt in wool and buckskin. Works below 0. I tend to stay home in the rain.
you might get stuck in cold country if shtf in late november, but if it's any earlier than that, get an inflatable raft and an old mountain bike and head south It will be at least 10x safer to travel only at night, so you need a solar charger and nvd goggles. being out on the water will be safer than land travel, too. if they have no boat, their ammo would be wasted on you, altho I'd portage around any bridges over the waterway. by at least 200m on either side. That's far enough to keep you relatively safe from effective fire, when moving, at night. If you take fire while on the water, get over the side of your raft. Water stops/deflects rifle bullets really well, if you dive even a couple of feet deep. But you need a way to stay connected to your raft. while swimming.
Thank you. Great video. This one's super-concentrated vital information that can be recalled decades later – especially when someone articulate (unlike my just-waking brain comment here) and engaging is delivering the acronym's explanation.
there's just no reason to suffer heat or cold. One place will be just as dangerous/resourceful as another, given shtf. have food and basic gear caches at both place. Within a year of shtf, 90-99% of the population will be dead, enabling you to pick up all sorts of goodies. until then, stay in your little dugout during daylight hours.
Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *
16 hours ago
23 hours ago
1 day ago
Copyright Â© 2015 Survival-Hunters.com